Première Vision in Paris this February has become a one stop shopping expedition for all those seeking early Spring/Summer 2017 guidance and inspiration. This international textile fair has expanded into leather in a separate hall, Première Vision Leather, and another section has been dedicated to findings, called Première Vision Accessories.
A centrally located forum displayed a tightly edited colour story for spring/summer 2017, and a large screen streamed a creatively done video focusing on the new fabric trends for next season. In addition there were several other forums keying in on specific fabric sectors, for instance denim, evening fabrics, outer wear, shirtings etc.
Looking at fabrics gives off clues what trends might actually happen next spring, and the following is our take on what we think many designers might consider when conceptualizing their new collections.
1.–3. Courtesy Première Vision
B&W STAYING POWER
No, black and white is not new! We have seen plenty the past few seasons, we are seeing more this current spring season, and we will see it again next year. However, there are so many new, exciting versions in different fabrics and materials that the black and white story will be totally re-invented. Linear abstract lines and randomly placed thread scribbles on gauze looked as fresh as uneven, irregular stripes on patent leather.
4.–6. Courtesy Première Vision
A recent African themed exhibition in Paris (it closed already!) inspired many designers in the yarn and textile sector to use the Dark Continent as a creative starting point. The result shown at Premiere Vision were not your classic African patterns but an evolution thereof in a distinct modern way, playing and mixing designs and symbols in fun patchworks and whimsical prints. Cords, ropes, buttons and other findings in the same ethnic spirit were plentiful in the accessories hall as well.
7.–9. Courtesy Première Vision
DISCREET CHARM & SHEEN
Soft mauves, pinks and greys in satin and real snakeskin implied a certain level of feminine dress-up sophistication. Yet the concept of subtle sheen also worked on gutsy, natural grained leather paving the way for a new direction in casual footwear and handbags.
10.–12. Courtesy Première Vision
Straw, raffia, cords and braiding were treated in many different ways, from elaborate scroll patterns to a striped pattern that tapped into a pop bright colour story. At the same time there were many understated uni-coloured straw and raffia weaves with sophisticated organic allure.
13.–15. Courtesy Première Vision
Bigger is better when it came to the continuation of the popular foliage print motifs. Some of the new versions were strictly botanical renderings whereas others interpreted giant leaves with simple abstract brush strokes in bold colours.
16.–18. Courtesy Première Vision
NEW SEE THROUGHS
Airy mesh and see-through fabrics will remain core fabric choices going forward. The newest mesh look was when used simply as a base for appliquéd 3-d flower petals or when a pattern was woven into it. Laser cut outs on cork with an underlay created a new peek-a-boo effect, a new direction because cork is slated to be an important part of a rustic trend.
19.–21. Courtesy Première Vision
SOFT FLOWER POWER
Découpage and burn-out/mesh/embroidery were some new treatments creating exciting new fabrics with floral designs. Snakeskin overprinted with a bold rose pattern provided newness for leathers as well. Colours were for the most part in a soft, feminine mood.
22.–24. Courtesy Première Vision
An organic fabric story emerged with loose strings, dropped stitches and raw selvage edges mostly in un-dyed, natural yarns evoking a trend towards casual, easy, handcrafted summer fashions.
25.–27. Courtesy Première Vision
The high shine look of patent leather will continue, and fabrics tapped into the trend with extreme lightweight synthetic fabrics ideal for a sleek, wet look in sportive outerwear.
28.–30. Courtesy Première Vision
OH SO PRETTY
Light, airy chiffon, organza and open crochets were plentiful lending themselves to sweet floral appliqués. Randomized yarn loops knotted into little squares overlaid onto the fabric moved the concept of appliqués into a whole new direction.
31.–33. Courtesy Première Vision
GIVE IT A POP
The recent exhibit “The World Goes Pop” in London (also closed already!) served as an inspirational kick-starter as well with bright colours and lots of graphic imagery, making sure Ziggy Stardust’s memory stays alive.
The next edition of Première Vision in Paris will take place September 13 to 15, 2016.