DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS FALL/WINTER 2017/18 MILAN

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS FALL/WINTER 2017/18 MILAN

No. 1 Colour Flashes in Milan

Shots of colour flashed on Milan’s runways making the point that there will be room for optimism next fall. Blues ranged from deep midnight to brighter, royal tints. Reds were represented in most collections, often from head to toe. Whereas the yellow-cast olive green family continued strongly, new, lighter shades of spring-like greens emerged. Yellow, usually associated with spring segued into fall in interesting ways. Another spring/summer favourite, pink, made impact often in almost fluorescent versions. More traditional fall shades, purple and peacock teal, lightened up.

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DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

No.3: Print & Pattern

It would not be London Fashion Week without designers acknowledging British heritage classic prints and patterns. There were plenty of tartans, traditional checks, club stripes, and garden florals, even Fair Isles sweater patterns. That said, the garments looked anything but classic. London designers re-affirmed their place as heirs of Swinging London with kicky designs reminiscent of the youth quake.

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DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

No.2: Materials & Treatments

As it is often the case, newness in fashion is not about re-inventing basic silhouettes, but rather it is achieved with exciting new materials and treatments. London designers, particularly the talent incubator, Central Saint Martins took full advantage of technical fabric developments and experimented with wearable plastics. Many designers opted also for extreme lightweight tech satins, sometimes iridescent, and used them for dress and casual looks alike.

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DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS: FALL/WINTER 2017/18 LONDON

No.1: Colour

London fall/winter 2017/18 collections could easily be taken to be “buy now/wear now” spring designs. (And, indeed, some of them were, notably Burberry) Designers simply ignored traditional seasonal colour delivery cut-off dates and continued to show whites and pales for winter with a heavy dose of bright highlight shades as well.

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LINEAPELLE IS ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT SPRING/SUMMER 2018

LINEAPELLE IS ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT SPRING/SUMMER 2018

Leather and material collections presented at Lineapelle, the Milan trade fair, offered a preview of what designers will get inspired by for their spring/summer 2018 footwear and leather accessory designs. And there was plenty of inspiration to be found! Leather was still the main attraction with a multitude of new patterns and finishes. But the rise of non-leathers could not be ignored. New mesh and neoprene versions catapulted materials into the future, whereas natural straws, raffia and hemp promoted eco-friendliness and sustainability.

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MILAN SHOPS ARE EXUBERANT THIS SPRING

MILAN SHOPS ARE EXUBERANT THIS SPRING

Sparkly sequins, silky fringe, colourful stones, elaborate embroideries and patches as well as a multitude of bold prints are the essence of Milan shop windows this spring. Ready-to-wear fashions in colourful floral prints project an exuberant mood. Shoes and accessories follow the trend. One of the most popular items is a sky-blue Gucci bag with floral embroidered patches, prominently displayed in windows and already worn by many on the street.

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WATCHES GO MAD FOR PLAID

WATCHES GO MAD FOR PLAID

Traditional Brit-style checks and plaids never seem to go out of fashion. They always seem to be there, classic, demure and somewhat in the background. Not so going forward! Plaid-clad fashionistas have been spotted everywhere this season, in London, Stockholm, Paris and New York. And judging by the fall/winter 2017/18 designer collections we can expect to see everyone and everything going mad for plaid next fall.

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DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS FALL/WINTER 2017/18: NEW YORK

No.4 Strong Silhouettes Emerged as Must-Have Items for fall

Images/Imaxtree

Showing off a bit of skin was definitely a major statement on the New York runways. However, it was accomplished in different ways, from extremely cropped tops, to split open skirts, bare shoulders as well as creatively placed cutouts. Interesting sleeve treatments (sometimes transparent) added definitely another level of newness to top silhouettes.

Dresses featured predominately longer hemlines, and pantsuits looked equally good with narrow or wide-legged trousers.  The fur chubby jacket was a favourite cover-up. Exaggerated shoulder treatments on jackets, dresses and puffer outerwear added a futuristic edge.

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS FALL/WINTER 2017/18: NEW YORK

No.3 Print & Pattern are Crucial Elements for Fall/Winter 2017/18

Images/Imaxtree

Statement making t-shirts drew attention to the current political environment. That said, once made, fashion resumed the business of fashion with fresh interpretations of classic fabric patterns such as Prince of Wales checks, Highland plaids and oversized lumberjack plaids. They were re-coloured and often interpreted into non-traditional evening and long daytime dresses besides the ubiquitous classic suits and jackets.

Graphic patterns played with op art circles and lines as well as precisely placed repeat designs. Random abstract art prints added a colourful element. Winter florals in elaborate jacquards set a dressy note. Simultaneously, floral prints also made a fresh sportive statement as a quilted jacket with matching skirt.

DESIGNER COLLECTION ANALYSIS FALL/WINTER 2017/18: NEW YORK

No. 2 Materials & Treatments Add Newness to Fall/Winter 2017/18

Images/Imaxtree

There was sparkle on the New York runways. Not only evening dresses shone in gold, silver, bronze, and copper, coloured metallic fabrics added even more shine. Daytime fashions were equally as enamored with a glitter glam effect. Colourful furs and feathers upped the ante further.

Velvet and satin continued its successes from last fall with more colour options. Navy and wine were favourite shades besides black.  Fur trims added sophistication to simple man-tailored suits and coats. Add-on details ranged from Victorian romantic silk frog closures to contemporary patches. And on a quiet note there was grey flannel, albeit in non-traditional designs.

PRETTY IN PINK

PRETTY IN PINK

Spring this year is in the pink! Pale blush shades are at the pale spectrum of the pink palette going all the way to more intense, tropical, hot pinks. Designers set the pace by sending head to toe pink fashions down the runway. Accessories tap into the trend as well, from head to toe, from jewelry and eyewear to shoes.

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