Based on the strong tradition of leather tanning and leather goods manufacturing in Italy, Lineapelle in Milan is the important international trade event for anyone in those industries. The fair this past month proposed a colour story for spring/summer 2017 with ranges referencing contemporary pop, bright digitized colours, neutral earth tones and soothing pales. And every palette used black, white and grey as an anchor to build on. However, it is the treatment of leather, textures and finishes that were really providing newness.
BLACK & WHITE TO THE CORE
Whether smooth or wrinkly, hairy or shiny, featuring bold graphic or delicate line drawings, black and white remained a strong colour combination (note, however, that there was less all-over white only!)
1. Antiba 2. Antiba 3. Masini
Any shade of grey will remain an important core neutral for footwear and leather accessories. Treatments and patterns such as tone on tone waves, bubbly, puckered up surfaces or totally smooth leathers made the difference.
4. Ambassador 5. Christina 6. Tuscania
There has been a lot of buzz about yellow, and yellow croco, snake and ostrich prints certainly added newness. Other bright shades focused on orange/orangey reds and some greens. Bright pink, royal blue, turquoise and purple also had a presence but moved down the line in terms of importance.
7. Eugenia 8. Eugenia 9. Gaiera
No need to say more! The power of denim is unstoppable, and shades of blue are meant to complement the denim look from head to toe. Material choices will provide the update from elegant micro patterns on leather, suede tassels for shoes, and a washed out shine effect on a croco print.
10. Miura 11. Eugenia 12. Marbella
Sustainability has been a topic generating more and more interest in every industry. The vegetable tanning process has always been a more environmentally friendly tanning process, and its natural brown, tan and rust shades will remain core basics in any season.
13. Giardini 14. Ascot 15. Stefania
Subtle shimmer in soft shades made impact with satin and pearlized finishes. Leathers and non-leathers alike were mostly smooth, but some floral scroll patterns added a truly glamorous note.
16. Nutilvo Spa 17. Antiba 19. Miura
Metallic finishes were plentiful, from high shine mirror finishes to matte and distressed. Although cool silver tones were available, it was shades of gold that stood out in classic high shine yellow gold giving croco and snake prints a new look. Rose gold tones took their cue from fine jewelry adding a new shade to the metallic palette.
19. Christina 20. Meridiana 21. Europa
Clean-lined geometric designs, zigzags, squares or rounded off wave patterns were either intricately woven or embossed. Pale shades and neutrals looked particularly fresh.
22. Eurofur 23. Querida 24. Querida
FANTASIC WOVEN TALES
Woven patterns emerged as a major trend! They were either simple weaves (sometimes just printed) or extravagantly designed in patchwork patterns, stripes and even adorned with appliqué flowers.
25. Antiba 26. Conceria Italiana 27. Antiba
The natural grains showing off the actual pattern of the animal hide are no longer just for men’s footwear and accessories. The newest versions featured not only a pale colour story but also subtly metalized two tone sheen finishes, soft to the touch nubuck or coarse crinkly patent making these leathers an ideal material choice for sport shoes and accessories with a feminine touch.
28. Conceria Italia 29. Everest 30. Tuscania
ELEGANT MICRO PATTERNS
Understated luxury is a trend that will transcend from haute couture down to shoes and bags with subtle micro patterns embossed on leather. Slightly raised waffle patterns or tiny slashes will make an elegant accessory statement.
31. Ambassador 32. Gaiera 33. Tuscania
MESH ON LEATHER
The mesh look goes upscale when it is embossed and printed onto leather, tapping into that open-air feeling in an ultra luxurious manner.
34. Masini 35. Masini 36. Volpi
When it’s all said and done shades of brown, tan, camel and beige will rule leather footwear and accessories for next year’s spring. Matte dry finishes will vie for attention next to shine, and subtle patterns will add understated elegance. Note that we feel any soft beige will be newer than all-over white!
The next edition of Lineapelle will take place in Milan September 7-9, 2016